Q: When is the best time to plant sod?

A: In the West, sod can be planted anytime of year, but spring and fall are the best times, due to the milder, more consistent temperatures at those times of year. If sod is planted during the heat of summer, extra precautions must be taken to ensure adequate water--if sod dries out before rooting, it will not recover. Landscapers typically plant sod year round, and most are familiar with the specific needs sod may have for a given time of year. The staff at your local Village Nurseries can advise you on choosing and installing the right sod for your location.

Q: How long can I wait to install sod after it's delivered?

A: Sod is a cut and perishable product, and must be installed the same day.

Q: When is the best time to prune my roses?

A: Rose pruning should be a year round activity; regular "deadheading" or removal of spent blossoms will result in better continual blooming. Heavy pruning should be done in the winter months when Roses are dormant or at their lowest activity level. The staff at your local Village Nurseries can advise you on proper pruning techniques and correct timing.

Q: Do I really need two fruit tree varieties to produce fruit?

A: Yes, and no. Many varieties of fruit trees are self-fertile and do not require a pollinizer. Peaches and nectarines, for example, are almost all self-fertile, with only a handful or varieties requiring a second tree to produce fruit. Citrus trees like oranges, lemons, and limes, and grapefruits, etc. are all self-fertile and require no pollinizer. However there are many other types of fruit that DO require a second pollinating tree, and certain varieties must be chosen for the best results. Apple and cherries are just the opposite of peaches and nectarines, with almost all varieties requiring a pollinator. The staff at your local Village Nurseries can help you select the right trees for your yard or project.

Q: During the summer months our cars get covered in a sticky substance that seems to come form the big tree in our front yard, What is it and what can we do about it.

A: It is probably honeydew, which is the secretion of aphids. Aphids are tiny little sucking insects that can infest everything from small shrubs and flowers to giant shade trees. They multiply rapidly and can create quite a mess in great numbers. One sure way to find aphids is to check and see if there are ants crawling in your tree as well; ants love to harvest the honeydew from the aphids and will often be seen on infested trees. If possible, bring a sample branch to your local Village Nurseries for analysis by one of our experts. They can help you determine the problem and correct course of action.

Q: What do the numbers on a bag of fertilizer mean?

A: The numbers on a bag of fertilizer, also known as the guaranteed analysis, represent the percentages of the three key ingredients in all fertilizers. For example: if you have a bag of all-purpose fertilizer labeled 12-12-12, this means you are getting 12% Nitrogen (for growth and green color) 12% Phosphorous (for root development and flower/fruit production) and 12% Potash (for strength in the stem and leaf or blade structure). The guaranteed analysis varies greatly from brand to brand, and all manufacturers have gathered tons of data to support their own blends. Visit your local Village Nurseries today and let one of our experts help you sort out the fertilizer maze and choose the right fertilizer for you.

Q: How often should I water my plants after they are installed?

A: There is not one simple answer to this question; watering needs can vary from plant to plant and location to location. The general rule of thumb is that plants should be kept moist, not soggy. Overwatering can kill or damage a plant as easily as underwatering. The individual caring for the plants after installation must ultimately be the judge of the soil moisture level. Consistently moist soil with good drainage is your best bet. Plants in containers with potting soil or planting mix can drain and dry out faster, and should be checked more frequently for watering needs.


As a convenience to our customers, we have listed below many of the common nursery terms and their meanings.

Category: Plant material

Annual: Any plant that lives one planting season only. The primary purpose of an annual is to produce color. Common annuals include marigolds, impatiens, begonias, petunias, and many others. Gardeners typically replace annuals 2-3 times a year to keep commercial plantings looking their best. Annuals can include plant families for sun or shade exposures.

Perennial: Any plant that lives season after season and produces color during a specific time of year, typically spring/summer, and may re-bloom with pruning and regular maintenance. Perennials can be small border or container plants or large shrubs; many plant families fall into this classification.

Hybrid: this term refers to plants that have been genetically altered from a parent plant typically to produce new colors. Roses are the best example of this. Each year new "Hybrid" varieties are introduced, each with a specific new color or fragrance quality, and they may also be hardier plants, with more vigorous blooms, longer blooming periods, and/or improved disease resistance.

Deciduous: Any plant or tree that loses its leaves in the winter months and goes into a state of dormancy. Most shade trees fall into this classification.
Common varieties include: ash, maples, birch, sycamores, crape myrtles, etc.--many shrubs like hydrangeas, forsythia and althaeas are also deciduous varieties.

Standard: This term actually refers to two different things, the first would be when considering fruit trees, standard is the term used to describe a full-size fruit tree, not a dwarf or semi-dwarf variety. The second would be when considering certain flowering shrubs and small trees, standard is the term used to describe whether the plant has an established single trunk with more branching on top of the trunk. If a plant does not have an established single trunk, it is considered a multi trunk plant, and may be referred to as a "multi".

Dwarf: This term refers to plants or small trees that have been genetically altered to stay much smaller than the parent plant, in example: if a standard fruit tree grows to a 20' mature height, a dwarf variety may only grow to a 6' height, yet it still produces ample fruit and may be the most suitable choice for smaller spaces. There is not specific mature size that a dwarf will grow to as it varies based on the variety of plant it originated from.

Semi-Dwarf: This term refers to plants or small trees that grow to a larger size than a genetic dwarf plant, but still smaller than a standard size plant. A semi-dwarf fruit tree may be the best choice for gardeners who want to plant a home orchard, as the tree is bigger than a dwarf, but much more manageable than a standard fruit tree.

Succulent: This term refers to plant families that store water within their root or leaves to endure long periods of dry weather or neglect; they are typically very easy to grow and many varieties produce spectacular blossoms. Many varieties are available that include low-growing groundcover types, as wel as bushier, more upright types.

Category: Pesticides

Note: the information provided below is a general guide to some specific terms used in describing types of pesticides; it is not by no means all-inclusive. Village Nurseries recommends that all consumers read labels thoroughly and seek professional advice before purchasing or using any pesticide product.

Selective: This term refers to any pesticide, whether it be a weed killer, insect killer, or disease control, it doesn't matter. Selective just means that the product will only treat certain types of problems. For example: lawn fertilizers that are marketed as "Weed and Feed" or "Lawn Food plus Weed Control" typically only treat certain types of weeds, like clover, dandelions, and other leafy weeds, without harming grasses and must be applied exactly as directed. Other lawn products may offer lawn food plus a pre-emergent weed killer; these typically prevent crabgrass and maybe a few other weeds, but will have no effect on the weeds that a weed and feed will work on.

Non-Selective: This term refers to any pesticide that will categorically damage or destroy whatever it is applied to, and is typically found in the weed killing products. In example: Roundup is a very popular brand of non-selective systemic weed and grass killer. It will kill or damage any plant it is correctly applied to. Always read the labels on weed killing products to determine whether you are looking at a selective or non-selective product; once a non-selective product is applied, the damage is done.

Systemic: This term refers to pesticides that work within the "system" of the plant. Some systemic products are applied to the root systems and absorbed into the plant that way, and others are applied to the leaves and absorbed through the leaves themselves. In either case systemic products are your best bet for long term control of weeds and insects as they provide a more complete kill of roots and leave longer residual kill for insects. Systemic products are never suitable for use on any edible crop. DO NOT USE SYSTEMIC PRODUCTS ON VEGETABLES, FRUITS, HERBS, OR ANYTHING YOU PLAN TO EAT OR INGEST IN ANY WAY.

Non-Systemic or Contact: These terms refer to any pesticide that works on contact and has a very short residual effect compared to systemic products, they are typically cheaper and often sold as ready-to-use products.

Organic: This term refers to products that are derived form naturally occurring compounds like peppermint oil, potassium salts, sulfur, and so forth. Organic products are excellent for gardeners who prefer not to use synthetic products with long tern residual effect. Organic products can be very effective but rarely control problems for more than a few days, they are, however, very environmentally friendly and much less toxic than synthetic chemicals found in other products.